Valve guide issues

So i got my new seals and decided to measure everything up again, starting with the valve guide projection from the head, i.e. how far they were pressed into the head... and this looks to be the issue.

Almost all of them arn't quite pressed into the head far enough, with the worst (in cylinders 2 &3) being 0.25mm too far out.  So I guess the valve keepers may have been tapping on the valve seals, which is what wore them out.

I'm thinking of replacing the exhaust valves now too as according to my measurements they are about 1/2 worn, and if this all works I shouldn't have to rebuild it for a long time.

Coked up head

The head was really coked up for only about 100 miles of use!

Carb cleaner pretty much dissolved it all

Diagnosing

The bores are a little more scored than I expected, but fine (i'll try and take a pic, but i dont reckon it'll come out very well).  Unfortunately I started cleaning the no2 piston before  remembering to take a pic. It had a fair bit more carbon than the no3.  Before I stripped the head off I checked the valve shims and they were almost all the same as before and still within spec, any differences we no more than 0.01mm so prob just how i judged the grip on the feeler gauges.  So I think it's either just the seals or an issue with the clearance between the valves/guides.

Ram air pics

Someone asked me about the ram air and I've realised i didn't take any pics of it finished.  So here it is:

The gaffer tape is just there as backup, It's matched up with fibreglass, then held on with silicon sealant. At some point i'll take picture of the inside so you can see how it joins the original plastic.

Burning oil

So looks like it's a problem in the no2 cylinder as that has the most carbon built up.  I performed a leak down test which showed the valves to be ok, so i'm guessing it's valve seals.  Still only 10% past the pistons, I thought it'd get better but it was about 7% before.

First Ride

Had my first ride today at Brands Hatch, it's a big step from the MZ.  Took me most of the day to get over how powerful it was compared to what i'm used to.  Didn't set the world on fire with my pace, but started to feel much more comfortable on the bike as the day progressed.  Also got noise tested and it's very quite, only 100db, which does mean i should be able to go on quite trackdays.

Down side is it started smoking and looks to have burnt quite a bit of oil in the last session, reckon i might have messed up the valve/valve guide clearance.  So snett is now off, while i figure out whats up.  I also need to sort out my rear suss, as after 4 sessions it started to tear up the rear tyre.  I def reckon i'll stick with the type 3 front and switch to the harder type2 rear (which was what i was advised) reckon the softer rear was too soft for today.

Finishing off for the trackday

I spent far longer than expected making sure there was clearance between the mudguard and tyre for the warmers, took much longer than expected and I ended up having to cut out huge sections of the front mudguard... it looks hideous (that's what i get for buying the cheapest i could find.). 

The new tyres are on the rims and in the bike, so I now have the OZ front wheel and 320mm discs. I'll use the 300mm discs on the wets.  Had to make some 10mm spacers and buy longer bolts, I meant to order some when i was at Steve Jordan's, but i forgot.

My dad has also been fitting the quick-shifter, which he tells me has been a right pain.  It's almost done, only issue left is the speed sensor.  The sensor works but the quick-shifter box doesnt seem to be detecting it.

Spacers and pro bolt replacements.

320mm discs, with 10mm spacers and oz wheel in.

I also got my dad to make me up a new exhaust hanger from 5mm strip aluminium which I then welded up.  As usual the really nice weld is on the back where you can't see it and the exposed one is rubbish.  Looks much nicer and is stiffer too.

Still got quite a it left to do for Tuesday.

New hanger, you can also see the R10's and the amount of the mudguard I had to trim